Culinary Vacation on a Greek Island

A few years back while in Greece for the summer and without the kids for the first time, I had the great opportunity to spend a week as a guest at Kea Artisanal on the island of Kea. A short, one-hour ferry ride from a port south of Athens, Kea is a beautiful island in the Northern Cyclades chain, and while it is a favorite weekend destination for many Athenians, it has not yet been discovered by tourists.

On this island, Aglaia Kremezi, a food writer, journalist, photographer, prolific cookbook author and one of Greece’s most prominent and respected food authorities, has created a heavenly destination along with her husband Costas Moraitis where they offer a cultural culinary program unlike anything else. This is not an ordinary cooking school and certainly not a professional cooking school. It is so much more. Unlike other cuisines with defined and established restaurant traditions, the most memorable meals in Greece will likely be those savored at private homes with the company of good friends. And this is exactly the experience that Aglaia and Costas offer: they open up their house and welcome their guests as they would their own friends, showing them around the island, cooking together, learning traditional cooking techniques, and enjoying long, leisurely meals together. Students who attend their cooking vacation program have the rare opportunity to experience the real food culture of Greece.

Upon arrival in Kea, students attend a welcome dinner at the stone cottage, on the terrace that is covered by a grape arbor for shade. An incredible spread of food awaits, which includes amazing small plates of mezze, Aglaia’s famous flatbreads, bright seasonal roasted vegetables from the kitchen garden, grilled fish wrapped in fig leaves, and decadent desserts. Each day, along with the relaxed, hands-on cooking classes, there is also something different planed for the participants; but they all start with a visit to the garden to pick fresh herbs, perfectly ripe vegetables and fruits, and tender grape leaves that will later be used during the cooking lessons. Costas, with his deep appreciation of culture and history and his interest in Biblical studies, leads day trips to the island’s ancient temples and hikes along the many stone foot paths and remote beaches to enjoy the sunset. Aglaia thoughtfully packs exquisite food, local cheeses and, of course, wine to bring along with us.

So, what can you expect from a week spent with these two incredible hosts? A complete immersion in the food culture of Greece, in a way that no guidebook can show you or cookbook can teach you. You get to enjoy authentic, traditional meals, which you helped prepare, utilizing only what is seasonal and what is available at that time of the year. Being welcomed to their house as family members, you experience the true essence of “filoxenia” or Greek hospitality.